I laid out the cockpit using 3/4"X3/4" #2 pine stringers.  It takes near knot free wood to make those curves!

    Epoxy is brushed on the sides and stringers, then screwed to the stringers using 3/4" screws.  The screws hold the wood together while the epoxy cures.  After it cures, the screws are removed, and the holes are filled with wood filler.

    Since they don't make plywood 12 ft long, I had to use two pieces per side.  I put the shorter piece in front because the angle curving in is less than in back, and the duct will increase its strength.

    Two layers of tape were used outside, and 1 inside the joint.

     This picture faces down on the bow section.  Though it may look like a 10F, I assure you, it's a whole other animal!

    Top's on now.

    The bow is at a 16 degree angle.  This is too steep for the lift engine, so the duct will be angled at 9.5 degrees so I don't burn out the bearings.  I had my friend at Northern call up Briggs to ask what the max. angle their 8 hp vertical shaft could run on.  15 degrees is the absolute max.  Any more and the oil splashers don't splash oil.  Very bad!

    All of the joints are taped.  This adds strength, but also hides imperfections, and keeps water out.  Before taping, I fillet the joint (is that correct terminology?) because fiberglass doesn't like to make 90 degree angles.  This also filled any gaps between the sides and the deck.